April 16 Castiblanco to Almaden (Stage 3)

Stu going up Calvery Hill (sort of)

We left early knowing that we had a long 30k trek. The first 10 miles was on a road . The next 8 kms was through a national park that had a forest of cork trees a lake and lots of beautiful scenery. The last was out of the park and up a very steep hill called Calvery Hill. We then went down a steep and rocky hill to Almaden. We found the aubergue which is fairly big with 18 beds in our room. It is totally filled now. It was a long, but lovely walk and we saw the black Iberian pigs for the first time. The albergue is 5 euros and they have blankets and a nice place to wash your clothes and a dining room and kitchen so you can make a meal. We left at 6:20 and arrived at 12:20 so we went to Casa Concha for a meal of salad, fish, and beer.  Hard to find wifi in these towns and when you do they do not know how to work it. We are ready for a rest.

Almaden

Ruins near Almaden

Joan sacked out in the Almaden albergue

Black pigs

Joan enjoying the view from Calvery Hill

April 15 Guillena to Castiblanco (Stage 2)

It is impossible to describe the morning euphoria that swells within as the sun's early arrival paints the world with orange highlights. The cold morning air collects mother nature's overwellming essences of sweet orange blossoms and the rich soil that makes it all possible. The experience is other worldly. We arrived at 11am.The walk between Guillena and Castiblanco is only 19 km but it is constantly uphill. Yesterday was flat and straight as an arrow along flat terrain. Today the slope guaranteed eroded sections of ditches and rocky rubble necessitating more attentiveness. George left a little later than us but caught up by the time we reached the albergue. The morning was clear and breathless. By afternoon a cool south westerly of 10kts had settled in. Perfect for drying clothes. Our plan each day is to start early, before sunrise, and before the others in our group have started. Getting to the next destination first has many rewards. Choice of bottom bunks, easier to extricate yourself, and warm water showers (sometimes warm water can be minimal), best space on the laundry line, first to the microwave or hot plate to make a meal, and best location for your backpack so it is easily accessible. There must be more reasons that I just can't think of right now. After a shower and washing our clothes, we head to the grocers to buy provision for lunch and supper and breakfast. Once done with this routine, you have the rest of the day off. Bedtime is 7-8 to write blog or read. Sleep strikes with suddenness, but never continues. Reading lights can appear several times during the night.



Joan

Morning light

April 14 Seville to Guillena (Stage 1)

We had another sleepless night in Seville. Our room had two bunk beds. One floor above us was another room with four. All four of which were filled with highly charged youths who were not very quiet upon returning from their late evening meal. They busied themselves with  showers, gaiety and laughter until they finally fell asleep at 2:30 am. Then our new roommate fell asleep and snored like a bull. We were glad to leave that alberque, and start our walk. It was a lovely walk. We passed through one city, Santiponce, where we stopped for breakfast. Cafe con leche, fresh squeezed orange juice, and a croissant with honey. It was delicious and about 5 euros. Stu then met an Englishman, George, and he was like a kid at the grocery store talking talking talking. We arrived early, found the albergue, and since it did not open until 2 we went off to the grocery store and hung out drinking beer, coke and eating potato salad. We came back at 1 and there were already 8 in line for the 20 beds in new part and 10 down in the old part. The overflow was beginning to fill. There is always the concern of whether there will be enough beds. Next closest place is another 16 kilometers.  The albergue is very clean and 10 euros a night. It has a microwave and a hot plate so we bought soup, vegetables and bread  for dinner. Our hostess, Jacqueline, is French and a volunteer. She was lovely. She warned us about people that enter the aubergue to steal. She stays until 9 or 10 to watch out for the pilgrims and then locks the door. They keep statistics in Santiago and there were only 2 Americans. Everyone was in their bunk by 10 and our room was quiet. We all had a good sleep. No Internet or wifi.

Doing the dishes

The long road to Guillena

15th Century church in Guillena

Stu and his new mate George

George's dinner

Cork trees

Church in Santiponce

Lining up at the albergue in Guillena

April 13 Seville

Plaza de Espana

First night in our Albergue in Seville. At most a couple of hours sleep. This albergue is open to not only walkers on the Camino but anyone. Front door open all night and they offer club hopping that starts at 11:30 pm and wine tasting at 8:30. Needless to say it was so noisy until after 2am  One of our roommates, Erica from Austria, set off today with her friends exhausted because of no sleep. Up for breakfast at 6:45. At 7:15, we started walking our self guided tour of Seville. Three of the most famous sites on our lists are the Cathedral, the Alcazar and the Plaza de Espana. Astounding! Look at the pictures and be sure you put Seville in your travel plans.  Looking out over the river, it is difficult to imagine Magellan in five ships with 200 plus men sailed forth,and only 18 men returned without Magellan. Within the Cathedral you can stand where they stood praising God for their deliverance, not too far from the tomb of Columbus. The former the first to sail around the world, and the latter who stumbled into the Americas, and our history books. Seville plaid a monumental role introducing the world to the Spanish way of doing things. We walked along the river to examine the old and new bridges. The Barqueta bridge, finished in 1992, is supported by one pylon from shore to shore.  


Joan

Cathedra

House in Seville

Alcazar

Barqueta Bridge

Stu in Alcazar Garden

Alcazar

Cathedral

Cathedral at dawn

Stu at Plaza de Espana

Joan ready to walk

Thursday April 12 Seville

Triana Backpackers Albergue-Seville

Our trip started with a 2 1/2 hour train trip to Seville. Stu was lucky enough to have cafe con leche and to find someone in the station that spoke English. He got tired of me responding to his essential info with a yawn. The train trip was comfortable. We watched a movie In English as we stared at the fields of olive trees. We left the train station, and walked to the Triana Backpackers Alberque. We have a room for 4, and have not yet met our roommates. We had salad, and potatoes for lunch. Many small outside cafes to choose from. Seville is a beautiful city, that we will explore tomorrow. Tonight we will go to the office of Friends of the Camino to see if they have any advice we can benefit from. 

Joan Roberts 

Madrid April 11

Today was our first full day in Madrid. We spoiled ourselves by going out for breakfast and lunch. We leave tomorrow for Seville. Yesterday, our arrival day, was spent resetting our internal clocks. No matter how tired we were from traveling we could not sleep. We spent from 1:30 am to 5:30 am reading, tossing and turning until we decided to get up and have breakfast. Next door to the Hostel Triana is a "restaurant of health". For breakfast, we had a toasted croissant and jam. Coffee for Stu, and hot water for Joan. This prepared us for the walk to the Atocha train station to buy our tickets for tomarrow's trip to Seville. We then went up to Retiro park to walk off our breakfast. We last visited Retiro a year ago in June. A big difference now with few flowers and not nearly as crowded. Still a magnificent park. It was soon lunch time so we returned to the "restaurant of health" and had the plate of the day. We chose, for the first course, a lettuce salad with tuna and anchovies our second course was a grilled bass with onions and red peppers and potatoes. They, of course, give you bread, a plate of olives, and a bottle of wine or water. Desert was fresh pineapple that was delicious. This cost 10.50 euros each. After our afternoon's rest, we will take another walk in preparation for dinner. We are bulking up and getting ready; for shortly we will begin our camino pilgrimage. 

Arrival Madrid

Madrid April 10-11

Crossing the ocean while being pampered in first class, was the very best way to start our second pilgrimage. While waiting for the yellow bus to take us from the Madrid airport to the Atocha train station, we met a father and son with packs planning on walking the Camino de Santiago. We shared some of our past experiences, and with much gusto told them how much they were going to enjoy the experience. They had seen the movie "The Way". How appropriate a father and son team would share the challenges of this outstanding experience. Buen Camino to them both. While in Madrid we will stay at the Hostal Triana. it is quiet, and conveniently located near grocery stores, restaurants, shops of all sorts and the Metro http://www.hostaltriana.com/ .  Rick Steve's recommends it. Located just off Puerta del Sol. It has WiFi, a major requirement for us in selecting lodging. Tomorrow we walk down to the Atocha train station to book passage for the following day on the earliest train to Seville.