April 22 Torremejia to Merida (Stage 9)

We started with bread toasted with butter, jam, sweet cakes and cafe con leche at the Iberian Cafe on the main street of Torremejia. The owner of the cafe also owned the alberque. For 20€ you got room,    the evening meal and breakfast served at 0600.  We were on the road by 0630.  After a short 16k walk, we crossed the outstanding Roman Bridge into Merida. We felt pride that we entered the city as the Romans had. We took a left along the river finding the albergue easily after we past the new bridge. It is beautifully located looking out over the park adjacent to the river.  We then explored Merida, the capital of Extremadura. It is a world heritage site. It was founded in 25 BC as a retirement site for soldiers. It has more Roman ruins then any other city in Spain. The whole day was spent wandering through the city. Stopping for a delicious lunch in delicious sunshine put a polish to the perfect day. Being Sunday the museum was open and free. We were exhausted by the end of the day. Today was Mara's last day. She will take the bus back to Zafra where she lives. We walked her to the end of the modern, white, arched, suspended bridge and tearfully said our goodbyes. I have never seen Joan so relaxed and utterly cheerful with another person. They were constantly laughing and chattering in two different languages, Spanish and Portuguese, Mara didn't speak English. Joan would translate what George and I were saying and visa versa what Mara was saying. George would get out his English-Spanish cards and a walking Spanish lesson would ensue. It is hard to believe that we have known her for only 9 days yet she feels like family. It was very hard to say goodby she has become such a good friend. Tomorrow will be equally hard because George will be leaving us. He too has become like family, a good friend and our leader. Under his guidance we could do anything. He has less time available to complete his personal "Plata Way". He is also a very strong, disciplined walker. He sort of lopes along with arms dangling at his sides. I know this because as a good follower I have spent many hours hightailing after him. If you don't keep up our Black Knight will disappear before the sun rises. Tomorrow, he will once again lead us on our early morning journey and, sadly, drop us off at Aljucen. George will continue on to Alcuescar close to 40k distant. There are many daily distances exceeding 30k approaching 40k and we have the time to slice them into smaller chunks. To both our camino companions, Mara and George, Buen Camino for your life ahead. We will truly miss you. 

Albergue in Merida

Clothes for sale

Lining up at the albergue

George departing

Bye George

Coffee break

Camino companions

George navigating

Pilgrims relaxing

New grapes 

The long road

Big kids

Do they ever walk

Lost in Merida

Only for a minute

Temple of Diana in Merida

Roman aquaduct

Stu visiting a cemetery 

Stu caught stealing flowers

April 21 Villafranca to Torremejia (Stage 8)

We had a long walk this morning. Only 28 k, but flat and seemingly endless. We left in the dark at 6.  In the early morning darkness, skewered by the light of two headlamps, kilometers seem to fly by. When the sun comes out all you see is a long road. You walk through fields and farmland along one of the straightest roads imaginable. Slight rises offer little relief. Topping them reveals another straight continuum. The vineyards are young so there is little green or contrast with the earth. The color is all a brown. The roads are good with small rocky sections to awaken you from the walking stupor. We kept seeing a city in the distance and then it would disappear.  It seemed to take for ever to get here. There are 2 alberques and we are staying at the private one. The name is Roja. You pay 20 euros each and you get a bed as well as dinner and breakfast. We had a delicious meal of lentils with potatoes and chorizo and carrots followed by rice with a tomato sauce with two eggs on top. We had wine with a gaseous water which makes the wine delicious. It is how women generally drink wine. We of course had bread and for desert Stu had ice cream and I had flan. All hearty and delicious. The company was great. We have a number of Spaniards doing the walk and they share their music and ideas with us. We are all tired but excited about getting to Merida tomorrow.

Which way

Along the Way

The long road to Torremejia

Lunch stop

Torremejia

Lunch with Ramon and Mara

April 20 Zafra to Villafranca de los Barros (Stage 7)

We started out early from Zafra leaving a wonderful albergue behind. It was a tourist albergue  which means tourists as well as pilgrims can stay. Often you can call ahead and make a reservation which is a very good idea. It is cheap so many tourists stay. We had a room with a private shower. There were sheets on the two beds and a down comforter as well as a wool blanket. You needed both because the building was very cold. It was a converted convent. Many of the albergues are converted convents. They washed our clothes for 1 euro and dried them for another. It takes a couple of hours to wash and at least 3 or 4 hours in the dryer   We were advised to make reservations here in Villafranca because the albergue here has only 18 beds. There is a hostel here also but not many beds. By 13:00 both were filled and it is 17 k to the next town. This is a private albergue called Carmen. It has 18  beds and only 2 bathrooms. It has a good kitchen and an open market close by. We bought vegetables and salmon. So we will cook later. The walk was short about 20k. We passed orchards of olives almonds and vineyards. The route is well marked and most of the road was easy to walk  We are in synch with the same group of pilgrims. Led by Corporal George who fortunately has more sense of finding the correct way than we, and our super cook and trained caregiver, Mara, we have no doubts we will get to Santiago. Only 4 weeks to go!!

Church in Villafranca

An Englishman, a Brazilian and an American

Stu recuperating from the walk

Joan and Mara best buddies

Shopping for dinner

On the Way

George preparing salmon

A lovely dinner

On the Way to Villafranca

April 19 Cantos to Zafra (Stage 6)

On the road to Zafra

What Stu remembers of this cold dreary day.
Our 6am start from Cantos introduced us to very slight snow flurries. Once the morning light made known the new day, we got ready for light rain. The sky was cheerless. The bright effervescence of yesterday's blue sky and sharp sunshine will hopefully return soon. The weather report calls for light rain, off and on, until clearing Saturday, our arrival date for Merida. Presently, we are in the alberque in Zafra. We upgraded to a private room with its own shower!! What a joy. Our clothes are also celebrating their cleanliness in a machine, instead of being trampled on in the shower.

What Joan Remembers.
We left early at 6 because there were a lot of pilgrims. Yesterday afternoon Mara and I checked for yellow arrows to prepare for our early morning start. There are no arrows in town just outside so you have to check the day before  especially if you leave in the dark. We had a few snow flakes and then some rain. We passed through both olive trees and vineyards. There were beautiful green fields. We passed through two towns before Zafra. We got a little lost in the first part of the village. We missed the arrows and had to backtrack with help from a nice Spanish gentleman we corrected our way. We stopped for cafe con leche a few kilometers from Zafra. Stu had two to ensure his final arrival with us. We walked about 25 kms. The next closest place with an aubergue is 20 kms further on. Zafra is a big city with lots of hotels. This is where our companion Mara lives so she will sleep at her home tonight meeting us here at the alberque at 6am to journey on. We are staying at the aubergue. It is very nice and we have pictures of it. We decided to get a double room which is more expensive 15 euros each rather then 10. Lovely private room with a shower. We have just finished a three course home made meal all prepared by George and Mara. How fortunate we met seemingly a long time ago. Both will be remembered for a lifetime. We know soon we will part ways. On our own to solve the challenge of the yellow arrow Way. The girls are out shopping so Stu gets his nap. 


The way is stuffed with folks. We are reserving ahead to get rooms at alberques or casa rurals. Fortunately we are with a Brazilian who likes to get up a 6am. We can eat along the way. We thought we wouldn't be all alone. We are way more social than on the Frances. After Marida we will be on are own. Up to this point I just line up at the rear of the foursome encouraging them onward. Joan is having the time of her living sharing with Mara. We will miss her dearly. Isn't that the way of The way?

Reception at the Zafra albergue

Joan and Mara

Inseparable friends

Sharing a meal

Waiting for the laundry to dry

George in the kitchen

Zafra albergue

Stu and Joan at Zafra

Zafra albergue

Zafra albergue

On the road to Zafra

Parador Hotel in Zafra

George and Mara at Parador

Plaza in Zafra

Plaza in Zafra

April 18 Monestario to Fuente de Cantos (Stage 5)

We had an early start at 6. It stays dark until 7:15 so we are like detectives trying to find the yellow arrows that lead us on our way. Mara and George left with us so there were 4 sets of eyes. We had a short day only 22 or 24 k. Each book has a slight difference in numbers. It was a lovely walk no great mountains or hills. We arrived about 10:15. Very early but the albergue was open. The albergue is a converted  convent. It is very lovely.  We actually have rooms with only 4 bunks and plenty of room . There are 23 beds. There is wifi and a kitchen.There is a bathroom with 4 toilets and 4 showers very nice. Redone 7 years ago. Cost is 10 euros. A very large supermarket is a few blocks a way. We will attempt to cook dinner together. It is a big building therefore the albergue is very cold.

Joan

Fields and olive trees

Heading to Fuente de Cantos

George our leader

River crossing

Room in albergue

Albergue in Fuente de Cantos

April 17 Almaden to Monestatio (Stage 4)

We were up at 6.  We had a good night sleep in our albergue. I have found the greatest cure for insomnia is a 4 or 5 hour walk. Today was another long walk, 37.5 k. We met up with George an Englishman and Mara a Brasilian at the beginning. We had their company all day. We arrived about 3:45. Stu was able to talk with George, and I with Mara. Finally, I have found a person that understands my Spanish sprinkled with Portuguese. She has lived in Spain for 4 years caring for an old woman whose husband died. Naturally she was well prepared to care for Stu and I helping with our packs everytime we stopped and checking for things we leave by the way side. We are staying in the Hotel Pilar. The municiple albergue was closed. They have a new private one run by the church that has 12 beds. There are many pilgrims and we were anxious that all would be full because we had such a long walk. We called and reserved  rooms. The hotel is 20 euros a person. A beautiful hotel each with a bath and shower. What a pleasure. In town is an interpretation center near the church. It has info on the albergues in Extremadura as well as the castles. There is a movie and pictures and Internet. Monestatio is the beginning of the part of Spain called Extremadura. it goes all the way to Banos de Montemayor. The hotel has a cafe and we had the Pilgrims meal. We had a wonderful bean soup and fish and wine and flan. This was 8 euros. There is also a big supermarket. The Camino was beautiful with sheep and goats and pigs and cattle. It was well marked. 


Joan


We feel like camino impresarios. Without George, the black Knight, he only has a black outfit to walk in, Joan nor I were planning to charge forward following our knight elect. Fortunately for Joan we had met a lovely Brazilian lady, Mara, who joined us. The team was formed. The town of Jara was 16.6 k ahead. By starting at 6:20, we would arrive at Jara 9:20. To early to call it a day. George, a massive bulk work of a man with leather walkers, suggested.  we advance to Monesterio, a mere 20.7k. Gently George assuaged our doubt promising us we would stop for appropriate food and rest. He immediately took us to a bar and ordered us strong coffe. Joan had her cup of hot water and a caffeine. We were committed to a most challenging day.  Monesterio is located at the top of a seemingly endless hill. Knowing we would arrive late in the afternoon, we called ahead for room reservations and are now tucked in bed writing to you all. Joan will post her own interpretation of the 37.5k marathon. We don't plan to match this mark again.


Stu

La Jara

Joan and Mara

Church in Monestario

On the way to Monestario

Rest stop

After a hard climb

Three Camino buddies

Dinner??