May 17 Lubian to Gudina (Stage 32)

The Way to Gudina

 This morning was something to behold. We got up at 0530 as did eventually everyone. It seems everyone had to go to the bathroom at the same time. The toilet broke Jon Claude was trying to fix it and there was a line forming. One broken toilet and 17 people needing to use it. All day long everyone scoots behind a tree; but, this morning everyone wants the toilet. We decided to eat and go. We had our yogurt and sweet role . We were off at 0600 with our lights on. It was a wonderful downhill out of the town. We then were diverted to a narrow, rocky road and we began our climb up to  Canda at 1262 metors. A simply beautiful area but the trail was wet and muddy. The mud was not clay but more sandy so it did not stick to your boots; but, once again, we were crossing big pools of water. It was really fun and amusing to pick your way up the mountain. There is nothing like a challenge to keep you interested. It was almost 9 k up the mountain and probably a good 80 percent of the time the trail was under water. So goes the camino. The flowers and shrubs and trees and fields of grass were spectacular. It was worth what little hardship we endured. In the skeam of things what is a little mud.  We entered a new province in Spain called Galicia. which is very beautiful. Our pictures cannot do it justice. Once we reached the top of the mountain, we went up and down the hills in and out of small towns until we reached Gudina. This is where there are two routes to Ourence. There is the northern route which is more isolated by way of Laza and the southern route. We will take the northern route. We phoned yesterday to reserve a room at the Hostel  Madrilena. Yesterday our alberque was full with extra mattresses on the floor and all the private beds were full in town also. This hostel is clean and lovely   It has a bathtub and your own toilet. The cost was only 35 euros. Well worth it. We walked over to the albergue and met up with Bernardo a pilgrim from Barcelona. We have hooked up with him on and off for a week. It was good to see him. He had walked through Lubian going several miles more but the albergue he was going to was closed and he had to stay in a hostel. We hope to meet up with him at 0600 tomorrow. We then came back to the hostel for lunch. We met up with about 7 Barcelonians who are friends that walk to gather every Saturday and Sunday. Every year they take a week of their vacation and they go off together. Finally our amigo Jean from Holland came in exausted and thirsty. She wanted to get a room but everything in town was full. Stu took her over to the albergue and she got a bed.  We all have the same concerns first a bed and then a beer followed by food.

The trail to Gudin

Scenery on the Way to Gudina

On the way to Gudina

Tomorrow's mountains

Glad to have waterproof boots

May 16 Sanabria to Lubian (Stage 31)

House in Lubian

Once again we were locked in our albergue . Stu managed to open a window in the dining room and out we went packs and poles included. We were warned that this was going to be a strenuous  climb up to 1329 meters. In terms of the climb it was not a problem. The path through the mountains was truely beautiful and serene. One problem we did encounter was the trail itself. After about a mile of slightly rocky trail it got muddy then it developed big puddles that covered the entire trail. We had to climb up on the hill through the brambles to go around. Then the trail turned into a river and up into the water soaked hills we went to go around. This happened multiple times until we reached the top at a small town called Padornelo. We stopped to eat and had a tortilla which is a tort made out of eggs and potatoes. We also had an empanada pastry with chorizo, ham and pork in it. We then headed down the mountain on the road. We eventually were directed off the road on to a trail. It was a very rocky trail that eventually got muddy then flooded and once again turned into a river. Jean a pelegrino from Holland was with us and she turned back to take the road. We thought we could skirt the river by going up and around but ran into rock walls that wouldn't let us through. Eventually we climbed the hill to the top and onto the road. We stopped to watch a Shepard with her goats and she directed us back to a small village called Aciberos. She told us that it was the shortest way to Lubian. It turned out to a beautiful  village of 44 people. The villagers directed us to the Camino and off we went. The mileage was suppose to be about 20k. We left at 0600 and arrived at 1300. We immediately found our albergue. There are 12 bunks upstairs and 4 down stairs in the kitchen. There is one very small bathroom with a toilet and a shower. Very tight quarters. No room to turn around. But, we are all happy the day is over and we are together. 

Joan in Lubian

Stu looking for a dry path

Jean Paul and Jean Claude in Lubian

Watery trail

On the Way to Lubian

More scenery

Stu hanging in there

Jeanne, An unhappy pilgrim

Confusion

Trail to Lubian

Lubian

Trail to Lubian

Albergue in Lubian

May 15 Asturianos to Requeo de Sanabria (Stage 30)

Stu stepping carefully

It was a long slow walk today. 27 k but it took almost 8 hours. We started at 0615 walking on a beautiful scenic downhill. It wasn't long before the path turned into a soggy, muddy river road. You had to hop from grass hammock to stones along the side. We then went through some quiet woods where the flowers were just beginning to color. Once again we met up with flooded trails and had to try for dry land along the sides. We then followed a trail by the river which was quiet and lovely with the sound of the river on our left and the grasslands on our right .To get out of this peaceful place took awhile since we had to cross feeder streams multiple times. We visited a church in Terroso, followed by 5 k more of streams, grasslands and cattle. We finally arrived at our albergue, Casa Cervino, where we had reserved a private room for 28 euros. Our albergue  last night was $4 euros. Casa Cervino is a tourist albergue not a municipal albergue. Five of us reserved yesterday because we wanted to take our time and not worry about beds. This small town of 169 people has a store so we could finally build up our supplies for supper tonight, breakfast tomorrow and for the big climb tomorrow. We start at 3200ft and top out at 4200ft then it is downhill to Lubian. One interesting conclusion of today's walk. It is not distance that tires you out, it is time. What we expected to take us five and a half hours took us eight. Those that walked the road walked two hours less than we. The trails were that bad. Hey, this the camino, getting there is the aim.

Soggy trail

Color coming to the flowers

Typical rural dwelling

On the side of a house in Triufe

Joan by the river

May 14 Rionegro del Puente to Asturianos (Stage 29)

Stu and Jeanne from Holland

Wow, we really left early today we were out the door by 0530. We wanted to stay under 30 k to do that we had to go about 25 k. There were only 2 places that had any accommodations. San Salvador which was only 15 k had a small aubergue with only 4 beds. The next place Asturianos is 25k and has 6 beds. The next place is 40k. We wanted a bed before 40 k so we started early. We crossed fields of wild grasses . The fields had not recovered from the rain, so there were parts of the trail under water. We had to walk on the grass mounds trying to stay relatively dry. It was tedious. At one point the police stopped to point out the way. We finally reached our first city Mombuey. It was about 9 k  walk so it was light and we could see. This of course did not stop us from getting totally lost. The trail was not marked well so we went in circles until a man stopped his car in the middle of the highway to give us directions. We found the trail plus Josette, Jean Paul and Jean Claude. They decided they had no chance of getting a bed in San Salvador so they too were going to try Asturianos. We had decided to follow the road rather then the trail because the trail had a lot of rocks and construction. I have had problems with a foot that I twisted walking in the mud and it hurts worse when I  am walking on rocks. We followed the road which was a little off the camino. We arrived at Asturianos and then proceeded to ask where the aubergue was. They said it was up the hill attached to a new sports center. Both the alberque and bar are attached. There is a small room with 3 bunk beds   There is a very nice shower and 3 toilets. Last night there was 2 toilets for 24 people. We are In luxury here. We arrived first then Jeanne from Holland. A man from Spain and finally are party of 3 from France. Too many people for 6 beds. Jean Paul has a mattress on the floor in the hall. The bar has wifi and we can buy a meal and drinks. There is no grocery store  in town. Yesterday was Sunday and no stores were open.  We have no cookies and have to go 15 k to replenish  our supplies. Hard life..

Overflow accommodations in Asturianos

To the albergue

The albergue

All bunks filled

On the way out of Asturianos

May 13 Santa Marta to Rionegro del Puente (Stage 28)

Walking between ancient walls

We started early this morning about 5:45. It is getting light by 6:30 now. It is also getting very hot by 9 and I have to be in a skirt and sleeveless top. It was a well marked route. We had the river on one side and forests on the other. We were surrounded by the sounds of birds, insects and frogs. It was so peaceful and beautiful with one exception. The sound of gun shots in the dark has a way of spoiling the peace. After walking through the forest for a couple of hours, we came to a reservoir, and a hydroelectric  dam. The trail takes you around the reservoir and up a hill. At the top of the hill we could look down st our resting spot, Rionegro del Puente. After another uphill we came to our albergue. It is a dorm setting but lovely. We chose to be upstairs because it is light and airy. We then went over to the bar where we had salad mixtas. It was delicious with tuna, egg, lettuce, tomatoes, sweet onions and olives. We followed it with lentil soup with potatoes and carrots. I had 2 bowls and Stu had three. Bread beer and ice cream and we were content.

On the Way to Rionegro

Scenery along the Way to Rionegro

Scenery along the Way

Avenue of flowers

Perfect spot for a couple of thirsty pilgrims

Salad mixta

Joan tucking in

Would you like some more lentils?

Joan got stuck with the top bunk

Albergue in Rionegro

Church in Rionegro

Tomorrow's departure route

May 12 Tabara to Santa Marta de Tera (Stage 27)

Leaving Tabara 6:00 AM

We left our small albergue at about 6 . It was both cool and beautiful walking through the town down to our Camino . Once again we walked through fields of grain and grazing land. We got to a small town by the name of Villanueva de Peras and stopped for breakfast. It was about 10  We stopped at Mona's bar. Stu had his cafe con leche and I had hot water. We also had toast with local honey. It was delicious. We set out walking again and passed fields of grape vines and wine cellars built into the hill.  After climbing and then descending a steep hill, we entered the small city of Santa Maria de Croya. We crossed the river bridge arriving at our destination, Santa Marta. At the local bar, we were directed to the albergue which was just across the street. It is a small one. There are 5 separate beds in the main room along with tables and chairs and a microwave. There is one more room that has 4 mattresses on the floor. There are 2 bathrooms with hot showers. Once again there is no charge. They ask for a 5€ be put in a metal box. We went over to the church which was built in the 12 century . It is a national artistic and historical  monument. The caretaker stamped our credentials and promised to show us the church at 1800. She sent her daughter, Marta, who was riding her bike with us to find the grocery store. It was closed. Marta wasn't fazed. She rode around the back of the store, disappeared through a door and just as quickly the front door was opened. Marta just happened to be the store owner's niece. The people of the villages are always so accommodating. We found this true last year when walking the Camino Frances. 

Breakfast stop

Bar at Villanueva de Peras

The road to Santa Maria de Croya

Almost to Santa Marta

Santa Marta

St. James

Albergue in Santa Marta

Stu at church

Hillside bodega

Stu checking out the road out of town

Joan and Marta of to the tienda

Planning

Church in Santa Marta

Santa Marta

Oldest church in the province