May 6 Salamanca to Calzada de Valdunciel (Stage 21)

We left Salamanca,and our beautiful hostel after a breakfast of orange juice, croissants, sweetbreads, toast, jam, butter and coffee. The trail was almost all dirt roads. The sun was out the first time in weeks . The roads still muddy and hard to navigate but well marked. We felt good and walked for about 3 hours. We arrived at our small albergue, only 8 beds, in Calzada de Valdunciel. It is a small town with a population of 620 . It is an agrarian town but has a wonderful web site. Calcazadadevaldunciel.es. Jean Claude and his wife Joseph along with their good friend Jean Paul, all 3 from France, and Irene from Ireland and her friend plus a gentleman from South Korea have filled the beds. We decided to walk out to the main highway and have a meal at the restaurant Joaquin. Lentil soup, salad, drinks and bread. After we told Jean Claude where we had lunch, he said that his guide book advises that eating at Joaquin would be expensive. Lesson learned to search the web for better guide books in English. 

The road to Zamora

The road to Valdunciel

Albergue at Valdunciel

Our beds

On the way to Valdunciel

Breakfast before leaving Salamanca

Sometimes it gets a bit muddy

May 5 Lay day Salamanca

The educational capital of Spain whose university was founded early 13th century. The vibrant hub is Plaza Mayor with pedestrian spokes heading out from all four corners. As are most "Old Cites", surrounded by the "New", they are easy to walk around in a relative short time however, add an inveterate shopper and there is no time limit. We had a lentil lunch date at 1400. It turns out the lentil was introduced to this area by the Romans. The soup contains, chorizo, carrots, potatoes, beef, chicken and some spices. The walk this far was worth enjoying this delectable first course. We are staying in the Hostal Cathedral. The view out our window is of the Cathedra, and our location is on Rua Mayor one of the main pedestrian shopping avenues. Joan is very happy. I find on a day off, from the waist up, the body is very satisfied eating and sleeping, but the legs are wanting to churn forward. So tomorrow we will start the final two weeks of this grand adventure.

Cathedral

Saying goodbye to friends

May 4 San Pedro de Rosados to Salamanca (Stage 20)

The Cross

A special day in a special city. Today is the day my mom was born 93 years ago. She was a special woman only 5 feet at her tallest and 90 pounds at her fattest.  No bigger then a minute but strong and determined. 
We left our Casa  Rural with all clean clothes and a little cafe con leche. We didn't leave until 8 because we were literly locked in   We set off in the rain. It was a light rain and felt good. We walked on dirt roads all the way here We opened and closed gates entering and exiting small farms. Most were cattle or cow farms.  The country side was green and yellow with flowers. The walk was only 25k but very tireing. The road was very wet and muddy and you slipped and slid all over the place. We met a couple from Austria and Germany and also Alberto and Nora at the cross right outside Salamonca. A man made the cross and dedicated it to his parents and the pilgrims that pass as well as the hostileros. All pilgrims place a rock at the base or near by then make a wish. It is very moving. Into the city we trudged and were met by a hale storm. We finally made it to our hostel   Our Hostel Cathedral  is very small and lovely. It is on the first  floor of a building just across from the Cathedral  There are only three rooms run by an elderly man and his wife. The cost is 45€ a night. We will stay for 2 nights then start the second half of our pilgrimage. It is a sad day because most of our friends are stopping here and returning to their countries. We have become so used to greeting them each day.  We truly wish them Buen Camino. Many will return in September to finish the Camino.

The Way to Salamanca

On the Way to Salamanca

Entering Salamanca

May 3 Fuenterroble to San Pedro de Rozados (Stage 19)

Half way point

 We had to leave our American house at the albergue in Fuenterroble to start one of the most challenging walks to the top of Pico de la Duena. The hospitalero got up at 5:30 to make breakfast for everyone. Only Stu and I Were there but we had a great breakfast. We had little sleep because a mouse was in our room trying to and succeeding to eat my cookies. I kept turning on the light and throwing things at my pack. We started out in the rain and went down a dirt road with sheep on one side and cows on the other. We walked by several pig farms and then horse farms and fields of green. We passed a small refuge called Antonio probably for a pilgrim to get out of the rain. We then started climbing and reached Pico de la Duena at 1140 meters.  It is the highest point on the route. It was raining and cloudy but the views were spectacular. There is an iron cross at the top and several wooden crosses as you climb up to the top. They will continue to put crosses up until they have 14 for the stations of the cross. We then went down and finally on flat land. We passed a big pig farm and for the next 13 k we went up and down slight hills until finally we reached  San Pedro de Rozados. Tired and wet we stumbled into H C Carrera  bar and Casa rural. We sat and had beer and talked to a woman from Switzerland who we met along the Way a few days back. The albergue is not very good here so this place filled up quickly. We had a great lunch with white bean soup with chorizo. Our second plate was pork chops and tomatoes. We had bread and wine with gaseosa water and ice cream for desert. Our laundry will be done shortly. San Pedro is the half way point. Tomorrow will be the completion of our third week. It seems a very long time ago that we began in Sevilla.

Cold, and wet and long

Stu hiding out

A rest stop in good weather

Along the Way overcast and cool

Joan adding her rock to the cross

Our destination in the distance

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A rest every two hours

The miles go by slowly

Endless peaceful countryside

A well earned meal

May 2 Banos to Fuenterroble (Stage 18)

We left Banos at a little after 6, reluctantly. We had a long day planned about 32 k. Today was going to be different in several ways. We were no longer in Extremadura we were entering the territory of Spain called Leon Galicia. It would be like leaving a friend. Another difference would be that we would be traveling through 5 towns. In Extremadura there were much greater distance between towns. The initial climb out of Banos was about 1 mile up hill on a road made of flat rocks. We went by Puerto de Bejar at 3.5 k. We stopped at Calzada de Bejar to see the church and to get a stamp on our credential. We also had one of Stu's tuna and olive sandwiches. We stopped at Valverde de Valdelacasa for a delicious breakfast of toast cheese jam and eggs with, of course, cafe de leche. We then had the energy to complete the 7 1/2 k to Fuenterroble. What a surprise we found when we got here. One of the most attractive albergues we have been in. It is a complex of small buildings pridefully decorated. We were assigned to the American building. An American woman gave the church money to build a separate building for American pilgrims. This building consists of 2 rooms a double bunk room and a matrimonial suite. It also has a tiny bathroom between the two. The shower was heated by solar panel. Unfortunately, we have not had much sun so the water was warm at best. We got the matrimonial suite. It contains a double bed about 2 inches shorter then Stu. There is room for both are packs but no more. We then went to lunch and had salad mixta and potatoes red peppers and a steak of some kind. Our waitress told us she had family in the next town  i asked if she knew about the case rural. As it turns out her aunt runs it so she made a reservation for us. We had wine bread and ice cream. It has been a delightful day meeting up with all our friends from the Camino.

Stu outside the American House in Banos

Leaving Banos

Scenery

Stu 

Outside Calzada de Bejar

Calzada de Bejar

Road out of Banos

Albergue in Fuenterroble

Friend Denise

Inside Curch

Composition of Roman Road

Church in Fuenterrobles

Lisa, Joan and Francois

German friend Elisa who knew Joan from Muxia last year

Albergue

Francois and Elisa hanging out

Michael and Dominique making a sandwich

May 1 Caparra to Banos de Montemayor (Stage17)

Mr. Pilgrim

We were out by 6 for an early start for a 24k walk to Banos de Montemayor. We wanted to get here early to schedule a thermal bath. The walk was on a dirt road paralleling the highways for 8 k. Most of the rest was on the highway. Scenery continues to be lush fields with animals. We arrived here at 10:30 and went to the albergue. There are only 3 rooms with 4 beds each. It did not open until 1:30. We decided for 25 or 30 euros we could go to a pension so we did. Pension de Don Diego. We have a double bed a bath and an outside porch. Our next stop was the thermal baths. The town is located in a valley between the mountains in the center of Spain   The waters were discovered in the second century. The Romans thought they were good for respiratory and arthritic problems because of the minerals. We filled out a health questionnaire and reserved, I do not know what, for 7 tonight. We are renting suits I think. They have lots of services from physical therapy to beauty treatments. We went for the cheapest  11.40 each. We cannot wait to soak our aching bones. This is a very popular town with over 10 hotels, hostels, pension etc. Today is Tuesday and a holiday so the grocery stores are closed. We found a small bakery that sells some food items as well as bread so we loaded up. We were just about out of food.  Everything closes up from 2 to 4:30. It is always a good idea to get to town early as possible to shop and explore. After making are reservation for a 7 pm bath,  we went to lunch. Lots to choose from. We had soup, chicken, bread,  beer and ice cream for 10 €. The thermal baths were wonderful. You change into robes go upstairs and go into a tiny room with 2 bathtubs boiling over with hot water. Stu went in one and I in the other. It was lovely. You stay 15 min. And them you go to a resting room for 15 min with a sweet floral smell and music. We came back to our pension and ate a large quantity of torts de cezar or cake of cheese. I think it is sheep cheese. It is like a sweet custard. Now to bed.

Banos

Joan

Trying to get warm

Happy Birthday Jim

Happy birthday Captain Jim Kilroy. This birthday wish comes from Stuart, and Joan who are on a walkabout. Trice will tell you about what Joan and I are up to.