Camino Via de la Plata, VdlP: May 19 Laza to Xunqueira de Ambia Stage 34)

We woke up early about 0530 to the hustle and bustle of the pelegrinos getting their packs ready and starting their breakfast. Everyone was getting ready to walk the camino, the road or to drive partway. It is a 12k walk up to Albergueria at 900 m. We chose the camino and within 3k we were walking through a small village Soutelo Verde. No problems with the road easy and well marked. The second village was another 3k and then we started to climb. There were some very strenuous places and the path was rockie but the scenery was exquisite and well worth the climb. We finally reached Albergueria and heard the sound of John Denver singing. There is a bar there that the walls inside are covered in shells with the names of pilgrims that have passed through. It was open so we went in for cafe and an empanada. We wrote our names on two shells and left them there to be hung on a wall. The owner has a brother that lives in North Carolina. He saluted us with Buen Camino as we left and gave us both a hug. We continued to follow the camino and within 3 k we came to the cross on monte Talarino. It was erected in memory of the people that have died on the camino, and to both peregrinos and the Galician who walked from all parts to work in the corn fields. We continued down the mountain to Vilar de Barrio. Our plan was to stop here for the night; but, it was early and we decided to walk to Xunquieria. It was a long walk on dirt trails through the country side and small villages. Unbelievably beautiful. We ended our walk at the albergue which is lovely. We walked 34 k but enjoyed all of it. We are in a smaller albergue with 10 bunkbeds. 5 in each of two rooms. Last night there were 32 beds. The cost is 5 euros which includes a gauze sheet and pillow case. We then went off to find food. The stores are closed around 1400 and reopen at 1700. We had a big lunch of wine, gaseosa, lentils, ham, French fries and ice cream. What a perfect way to end the day.