May 24 Puente Ulla to Santiago (Stage 39)

We left Puente Ulla at 0600. Yesterday was cloudless. Having left the higher altitudes the temperature is climbing into the 80s. We had a 4 k walk uphill out of the Ulla river valley before the path leveled near the alberque. The up hill climb was not bad since the morning was cool and the day fresh. Most of the way was through forests, farmland and suburbs finally delivering us into Santiago. We met Justine about 8 k out of Santiago. She did the Frances from Leon and then the Plata from Ourense. She is from Connecticut and the third American we have met. As soon as we approached the church, an English couple wanted our picture as true pilgrims. In front of the church another woman came up and asked to take our picture. We went over to get our Compostela, a proof in Latin that we did complete the walk. When we came out of the office, we saw our good friends from Italy, Nora and Alberto. They passed through Salamanca while we stayed an extra day. It has taken all these many days to rejoin them What a joy to see them and embrace and kiss. They speak no English and we speak no Italian; however, we experienced the same challenges and felt the same joys. We walked up to our hotel and met Renata on the way and experienced the same pleasure. She is off to Finisterre in a day or two. We had lunch together and did a final walk through town. We are sure that in the next few days we will meet other companions and our greetings will be the same, hugs and kisses. Though, in many cases, we only said a few words to one another during our shared journey, a bond is formed, a community is created because we walked 1000 k together. We walked through the same mud in the same rain. We detoured up rain soaked hills when our camino became a river. We staggered up and down mountains. We walked under the same moon in the morning and sun in the afternoon. We all experienced the beauty of Spain and the kindness and the generosity its people. How could we not care for each other.Today we looked for others that had shared the Plata adventure with us. Surprisingly as we were about to enter the Compestela Office, we heard our names being called out. There was Nora and Alberto sitting at a table across from the office door. We had seen them the very first night while awaiting the opening of the alberque. We hadn't seen them since Salamanca. They were the only ones from our beginning group. We gave then congratulatory hugs and kisses with slight tears. The rest had been absorbed by the ever arriving pilgrims from other caminos. We planned to remain in Santiago for the Sunday 1200 service in order to watch the flying incense. Since we had experienced Santiago last year when finishing the Frances, http://www.caminowalkabout.blogspot.com, we had to plan some side trips to Coruna and Ferrol to check them out. Both are on the North coast of Galicia and are very attractive cities. Coruna has the Hercules Tower and Ferrol has an outstanding history as a seaport. Both received pilgrims from the North. Both were staging areas and beginning cites to start the Camino English. The tourist office in Ferrol supplied us with a travel guide and the necessary papers; so, we decided to walk the camino Ingles. http://www.caminowalkaboutingles.blogspot.com

Joan and Justine with Santiago just beyond

Stu and Joan with camino friends

Yes!!

Looking pretty good after 1000 kms

Joan and friend Renata

View from Pension Badalada

Cozy room at Pension Badalada

 

Great place to stay

 

 

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May 22 Cotelas to Laxe (Stage 37)

We had a good night in our Refugio. It was only 10 euros each for our private apartment. We had a late lunch yesterday for 9 euros each . They served us a bottle of wine with a plate of chorizo and ham with a basket of bread . Shortly followed by chicken noodle soup, salad, steak and French fries. Desert was flan. Today we pushed the 40K mark. The trail profile was encouraging. The weather was misty and cool to start with and is still overcast: perfect walking conditions. After all this Galacian hill climbing, our legs were ready and our outlook positive. We knew we would be totally enervated by the time we arrived. All our friends are continually appearing. We ate at the local bar, soup, salad, ice cream, coke, red wine and gaseosa. Joan showered and is socializing with the new arrivals. We are so familiar with some that we recognize their presence from the hanging laundry. We are getting close to the end and everyone is both excited and sad. We have been a community. No more then 2 or 3 people walk together but we experience the same trail the same sentiments and the same challenges. We all meet at the end of the day in the albergues and we attempt to communicate in several languages and with facial expressions. Tomorrow is our last day on the camino before being swallowed up by Santiago. We will spend 4 nights in Santiago. We want to complete our experience by going to Sunday services at the Cathedral.

On the road to Laxe

Laxe

What keeps us going

May 21 Ourense to Cotelas (Stage 36)

We started our walk a little before 0540 with Ronata. She is Italian born in southern Italy but lived many years In Germany. She is back in Italy now working in various hotels. She is young and strong and very happy all the time, a delight to be with. We started out up a very, very steep hill probably 1 mile up. We went the northwest route as we did not see any other route. It was tough seeing arrows and once again a man stopped his car to direct us. Once we got to the top, the walk was beautiful and quite easy. Ronata is a fast walker she did the Camino France in 19 days. So we were moving the whole time and arrived in Cea our planned stop at 1000. We went to the albergue and it did not open until 5 pm. We stopped at a bar and had cafe and toast. Cea is famous for its bread. They bake it in a wood stove. It is delicious. So off we went to get a loaf. After going to two bakeries, we found our bread and were able to see the ovens. We decided to keep walking. Ronata wanted to go on and we saw a listing for a Refugio that had rooms for $20 a night. We stopped at the Refugio and our friend continued. Our hope is that we wil meet again. The room we have is delightful with our own shower and toilet. It also has a stove, microwave and a refrigerator. Life could not be better. It is a bit off the path but lovely. We will go back to the bar for a big lunch at 1400.

Trail to Cea

Stu and Italian friend Renata 

Joan and Renata

Cea

May 20 Ambia to Ourense (Stage 35)

We all woke up early wanting to get to Ourense and our last 100k. This is the starting place for those that want to get the certification of completion but can only walk the last 100 k. 
The walk into town passes through the suburbs then industrial areas. The albergue is at the top the hill just behind the Cathedral. Though we arrived at 1100, we had to wait till 1300 to get our beds. The Galacian albergues are some of the best regarding size of showers, cooking area and comfortable couches and chairs to hang out in. We dropped our bags and headed for lunch. This is our big meal because we never seem to get it before 3. We had a traditional  Galician soup called Caldo de Gallego. Made with kale which everyone grows around here. It contains white beans and potatoes. It is delicious. We also had a salad and then Salmon with potatoes and vegetables. Wonderful. A bottle of wine, delicious wheat bread and Ice cream. The cost was 11€ each. Our albergue was 5€. We then explored the city. It is Sunday so everything is closed. We are starting off tomorrow with little food. The camino takes us back into the mountains for the last time. Five more days to go. We have brazenly made reservations in Santiago for Friday, Saturday and Sunday when we will go to Sunday service and pray for all those who read this blog, friends and those dear to us over the years who have gone West.

Ourense

Cathedral

Caldo Gallego

Dinner at last

Salad mixta

 

May 19 Laza to Xunqueira de Ambia Stage 34)

We woke up early about 0530 to the hustle and bustle of the pelegrinos getting their packs ready and starting their breakfast. Everyone was getting ready to walk  the camino, the road or to drive partway. It is a 12k walk up to Albergueria at 900 m. We chose the camino and within 3k we were walking through a small village Soutelo Verde. No problems with the road easy and well marked. The second village was another 3k and then we started to climb. There were some very strenuous places and the path was rockie but the scenery was exquisite and well worth the climb. We finally reached Albergueria and heard the sound of John Denver singing. There is a bar there that the walls inside are covered in shells with the names of pilgrims that have passed through. It was open so we went in for cafe and an empanada. We wrote our names on two shells and left them there to be hung on a wall. The owner has a brother that lives in North Carolina. He saluted us with Buen Camino as we left and gave us both a hug. We continued to follow the camino and within 3 k we came to the cross on monte Talarino. It was erected in memory of the people that have died on the camino, and to both peregrinos and the Galician who walked from all parts to work in the corn fields. We continued down the mountain to Vilar de Barrio. Our plan was to stop here for the night; but, it was early and we decided to walk to Xunquieria. It was a long walk on dirt trails through the country side and small villages. Unbelievably beautiful. We ended our walk at the albergue which is lovely. We walked 34 k but enjoyed all of it. We are in a smaller albergue with 10 bunkbeds. 5 in each of two rooms. Last night there were 32 beds. The cost is 5 euros which includes a gauze sheet and pillow case. We then went off to find food. The stores are closed around 1400 and reopen at 1700.  We had a big lunch of wine, gaseosa, lentils, ham, French fries and ice cream. What a perfect way to end the day.

A little steep

Stu charging onward

Joan and owner of shell bar

More wet trail

Pilgrim Cross

Weather improving

Church along the way

May 18 Gudina to Laza (Stage 33)

We left at 0600 and started climbing. The views got more spectacular as we climbed. We pased through 4 small towns that used to  be railroad towns. Now they are practically deserted with only a few people living in them. The railroad stops at only one of them. The buildings that supported the large work force necessary for the dozens of tunnels needed are in disrepair. These towns are at about 1088 meters. The inhabitance have flower and vegetable gardens. We walked for about 4 hours and finally stopped at a small village called  Campobacerros. We stopped at a tiny bar with a woodstove in one corner and an armchair with a grandma reading the paper. There was a deer head on the wall and shelves covered with awards. At first we thought we were in someone's living room. We recovered quickly and had toast and cafe. We then resumed climbing for a short time and then descended for 14 k. We finally reached Laza and could not find the albergue. The police took pity on us and drove us to the check in place. We dropped our packs and then went off to find food because by then it was after 2. We had a delicious lunch of tuna salad and  lamb stew. With ice cream and wine. The albergue was 5 euros each and the lunch 10 euros.  We have gone over the journey forward and only 8 days remain. We will arrive on a Saturday looking forward to attending a Sunday Mass. 

Galicia

Road to Laza

Wet trail again

Beautiful solitude

After the railroad pulled out

Dinner at Laza

At the albergue